Picture of aerial view of Elveneset and the Bay of Sassenfjorden with white snow on blue ice.

See what a year looks like in the fastest-warming place on Earth

Melting fjords, increasing avalanches, imperiled wildlife. Our photographer documented the effects of climate change through all four seasons in Svalbard, Norway.

Svalbard’s bay of Sassenfjorden—here, in early March—spreads out beyond peaks favored by hikers. The Norwegian archipelago’s smaller fjords once froze over in winter, but warmer temperatures now keep the water flowing in some year-round. On Svalbard, Stefano Unterthiner saw an environment in peril—and a warning sign for the rest of the world.

“It makes you small,” Stefano Unterthiner says of Svalbard, the Norwegian archipelago perched in the high Arctic, where he and his family spent a year. In 2019 the Italian photographer moved with his wife, Stéphanie, and their young son and daughter to Longyearbyen, Svalbard’s largest settlement. They felt at ease right away: Though the town is home to only about 2,100 people—scientists, tour operators, students—they come from around the globe and represent some 50 nationalities.

To learn how a vulnerable ecosystem changes in this fastest-warming place on Earth, Unterthiner went in search of Arctic wildlife. He traveled by snowmobile and on foot, equipped with binoculars and a mandatory rifle, as well as camera gear. He found fjords melting, avalanches increasing, and rain-drenched permafrost icing over the vegetation the wildlife must eat to survive.

Unterthiner fears the area is “changing so quickly that most of the species—because they are so adapted to this environment—eventually won’t be able to evolve in such a rapid way.”

Arctic foxes grow thick, protective coats in winter. A fox looks for scraps on the picked-clean carcass of a reindeer, a sought-after winter food source. Once summer arrives, foxes feed primarily on eggs and chicks from nests and occasionally on seal pups.
Arctic foxes grow thick, protective coats in winter. A fox looks for scraps on the picked-clean carcass of a reindeer, a sought-after winter food source. Once summer arrives, foxes feed primarily on eggs and chicks from nests and occasionally on seal pups.
In Adventdalen, a Svalbard reindeer patrols the group of females he’s gathered for mating.
In Adventdalen, a Svalbard reindeer patrols the group of females he’s gathered for mating.
This story appears in the May 2023 issue of National Geographic magazine.

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